To the most underground Milanese this name should already say something, given the location a stone’s throw from the ashes of what was the social centre par excellence of the roaring 90s. On closer inspection, there is little to share – if not the name – this new place that bears the signature of Giancarlo Morelli, the starred chef of Seregno and Mattia Pastori, at the bar counter. Bulk is certainly not the kind of place that should be taken lightly: inside the five-star Hotel Viu Milano, it is easy to feel like Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson in Lost in Translation.
Refined, contemporary ambience, soft lighting framing a dizzying counter and an open kitchen perfectly organized and polished. Pity that I am less so, and a bit hesitant I am greeted by a crowd of waiters and hostesses in perfect harmony with the rest. I wait for my + 1 in the outdoor area, which is more a back away or as my friend suggests as soon as he arrives with jacket and shirt – he’s perceptive -, the garden of a friend who has rich parents. The list is divided into three macro sections where you can find reinterpreted classics and new creations by Mattia Pastori. We take Un Mexicano a Milano with Tequila Espolon Reposado, Biancosarti, jalapeno jam and avocado cream and polenta and the Negroni del Professore with Wild Turkey Rye Whisky, Bitter Campari, Vermouth and Cinzano Rosso. Impeccable presentation, less convincing the first cocktail that I expected more decisive and vigorous with a spicy note that I did not taste.
The diligent waiter – even too much – explains that we can accompany our drinks with a special menu: club sandwiches, stuffed focaccia, hamburgers and other small dishes to share for the aperitif that by default starts with olives, chips and toasted almonds.
The atmosphere begins to fill up, I think I see Moratti but I’m wrong. It will be the fault of the second drink we take, the Suffering Bastard (Beefeeter Gin, Chivas 12, ginger beer syrup, lime juice, bitter Campari), served as a tiki cocktail. We could go on forever but the night calls us to other shores. At the Bulk you can breathe the air and atmosphere of an international club with a sophisticated clientele – or at least wannabe – and a large wallet. We will come back because they tell us about a terrace on the top floor that will surely satisfy our social trends that after 30 years of age peep out.
Translated by @silaskin