ZERO here: Mangia la pizza fritta

Categories Restaurants


Starita Via Giovanni Gherardini, 1


  • lunedi 12–15 , 19–00
  • martedi 12–15 , 19–00
  • mercoledi 12–15 , 19–00
  • giovedi 12–15 , 19–00
  • venerdi 12–15 , 19–00
  • sabato 12–15 , 19–00
  • domenica 12–15 , 19–00

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Among the milestones of those who, like me, went to Naples to know everything about pizza and already there discovered a fantastic city (but this is another matter), there is Starita a Materdei. A historic place, born in 1901 as a wine cellar and over the passage of four generations it has become one of the best pizzerias in Italy. After opening in New York in 2012, the Starita family landed in Milan in 2016: these are small things that make us understand how our city is increasingly important in the world geography, and then there are those who complain but in the end Milan is always in the front row at all openings.
The atmosphere winks at a young audience with facing bricks, red counters and lots of wood, as well as a series of colored soundproof panels for the inevitable bedlam that is done every night: they do not accept reservations, so arrive very early or get ready for a long wait, just like in Naples (too bad for the different climate, but these are details).
To appreciate it at its best, we suggest you to stop by for lunch and from the abundant menu to order a Montanara, their famous fried pizza with tomato and provola cheese served on a chopping board. Simple and delicious, and as those who have frequented the Vesuvian city know, rather than you might think, the fried pizza (and extra dry) is not a heavy product at all!
I leave you with a review of Starita a Matardei written by our colleagues at Zero Napoli, in case you ever got tired of going to Berlin this weekend…
“Little angels, roses, pancakes. Delights for the palate. The one thing about Starita I’ll never understand are Maradona’s horns. Maradona can’t have horns. If at all, he did them (to his wife), but to say he has horns seems to me an exaggeration. Be that as it may, when you taste that jubilation of ricotta, pork cracklings and pepper, you can easily forget everything. You don’t think about anything anymore. You don’t even think about your wife. At home fucking the gardener. I mean, your horns.”

Translated by @silaskin