The smoke of grilled meat permeates the atmosphere of a trattoria of old times: typewritten menu, beaded walls, white tablecloths appropriately stained. The first courses cost very few euros, the second ones just as much. The portions, generous, give satisfaction: gnocchi with ragu, ravioli in broth, boiled chicken, liver. A few decades ago, all the trattorias were like this: a villain nostalgia.

Translated by @silaskin